For those who haven't yet seen it, I highly recommend getting your paws on a recent special edition of The Clinic (and for those who live in Chile and don't know what The Clinic is A) you need to get out from under the rock you apparently live under and B) take a look here ) dedicated to Chilean cuicos.
FYI, Cuico = snob in Chilean español.
The Clinic is a highly political and muy left-leaning paper that is famous for it's hilarious and highly offensive headlines usually poking fun at political figures - mainly right-leaning ones. Pinochet has been ridiculed more than you can ever imagine and then some.
But back to the point: Chilean cuicos. This brilliant piece of work lays out what it means to be high class in Chile. This paper includes various interviews with Chilean cuicos reflecting on their snottiness, interviews of chefs at famously snooty restaurants, a blurb by a psychiatrist who explains the cuico psyche and, finally, a quiz to measure just how cuico (or roto) you are.
As you can probably guess by the title of this post, I didn't do so hot on the quiz. Based on my score, The Clinic says that I am a roto de mierda with at least 6 generations of middle class ahead of me.
JAJAJAJAJAJA
What is a roto? Well the literal translation would be "broken" but in Chile it refers to someone low class but who is also very rude- rough around the edges - but a very negative conotation. For those interested in learning more about rotos you can read Joaquin Edwards Bello's famous book "El Roto"....
Of course the Clinic tells me that no true cuico would ever refer to anyone as a roto. They might call them humilde (humble) but NEVER roto...even though they're definitely thinking it on the inside.
Apparently it's roto to use the word roto in Chile.
Who knew?
Oh She-lay-in cuicos, how silly you all are.
But it's not just the cuicos- Chile - or at least Santiago - is a class-obsessed place(I'm not sayin' that the USA isn't, I'm just saying that bc Chile is smaller and more homogenous there seems to be, in my opinion, more of a set idea of exactly what a high class person is/should be...whereas in the US there are more varied opinions...like, for example, in the US you have quite a few "new money" people who belong to the upper echelons of society. That is less the case here...but I'll get back to that later).
People talk about class constantly- this guy is "ordinario" (ordinary or dirty) - or this thing is so "rasca" (ghetto) ...
in fact the very first convo I ever had with my now hubby was at a party at the Prince of Wales Country Club (of all cuico places) where we chatted about this very issue.
R won my heart ranting and raving about what he perceived as the pathetic obsession with class amongst his countrymen (and women)...
as so many "cuico" kids like to do, that night R was dressed to impress...meaning that he looked somewhere between a pauper a hippie and a crazy person topped off with a long and probably not-so-recently-washed mullet (unfortunately this was the preferred look for the typical male Chilean college student at the type - i don't get it)
R pointed to the sea of other party-goers and, in between sips of what was surely not his first piscola, tried to explain to me that most of them (not his friends in attendence of course) were all a bunch of homogeneous big fish in the small Chilean cuico pond, another brick in the wall, blah blah blah
He went on and on about this Chilean (hey, these were his words, not mine) need to feel superior...better
(um, have you seen the # of country clubs in Santiago? It's gotta be some sort of a record...mind you, we were having this discussion at an evil country club and got married at an evil Chilean country club...but, hey, i still felt what he was sayin')
It's all about class in Chile. X person belongs in X place. EVERYONE who lives in La Florida is middle class and sorta rasca...EVERYONE in Vitacura is a cuico....EVERYONE in Puente Alto is ghetto and poor. There are these BIG BRIGHT lines dividing neighborhoods...seriously it's like this more in Santiago (in my opinion) than any other place I've lived in for long enough to get a feel for the people and place (New Brunswick, NJ, NYC, St. Louis MO, Caen, France)
People are DEAD SET in their stereo types about class here. Actually, when I first brought R to meet my middle class (lived in Nunoa) host family the first thing my Chilean mom asked was where he went to college (la catolica), what he studied (industrial and electrical engineering) and where he lived (providencia) ...the FIRST thing she said after that was "you don't want to date this guy, he's just a 'nino lindo' cuico" (nino lindo or in the case of a young woman nina linda is a name for Chilean spoiled brats...essentially kids who have it all) She went on to tell me how he's part of a social sphere of overly privileged fancy pants Chilean right wing Pinochetistas....
mind you he's not...but i wasn't about to point that out to my old Chilean mom in the middle of her exasperated statements and puffs of her cigarette while wheezing from her asthma.
I mean, I'm not going to kid myself or you and say that R's background is some tragic impoverished story...bc it's not...but nino lindo he ain't.
nor was he ever.
yet in chile if you live in a certain place...if go to a good school - especially la catolica - and more specifically if you study or studied industrial/civil engineering, medicine or law - you are, in the eyes of MANY, a spoiled cuico brat...and probably a pinochet sympathizer.
Maybe it's all just my perception but it sure feels like there's a LOT of this black and white thinking about class floating around Chilean societ....Of course not ALL chileans think like this...it's just a general sense that i get.
There just seem to be certain truths about Chilean class.
As The Clinic noted one thing that seems to hold true among the CHilean upper class is the belief that anything that has garlic is ABHORRENT....this spice is horrific to the finer sensitivities of the Chilean elite.
Garlic kills vampires and cuicos, the article said...
jajjajajajaj
But seriously, if you want to do a social experiement try mentioning garlic ....see what people say...
and I can bet you that if you ever have the (dis?)pleasure of going to a truly cuico meal, you are loathe to bring up the issue of garlic (ajo) ...
The mean word will illicit moans and groans from the cuico dinner-goers ..."QUE ASCO" (how disgusting) "NO SUPORTO EL AJO" (i do not tolerate garlic) etc etc... you can discuss how much you love garlic bread and watch the cuicos writhe in digust.
in fact, now that i think about it, i wonder if this has anything to do with the saying "como el ajo" (like garlic) i.e. shitty i.e.
"esa pelicula es como el ajo"
=
"that movie is horrible"
Speaking of words and class, let me just list a few words for low class that come to mind in Chilean Spanish:
pulento
rasca
ordinario
picante
chulo
cuma
flaite
peliento
charcha
...
and the list goes ON and ON
....
and ON ...
Class is totally ingrained in how Chileans talk...(though i realize this is an issue in other cultures as well...hello pymalian)
But god FORBID you EVER pronounce the "sh" sound... President Bashilay (as in the president with the French last name Bachilet...i wrote a post about this earlier which you can see here)...let ALONE pronounce Chile as "she-lay" - then you're super duper ordinario.
I'd also suggest saying these things at a cuico meal...someone's eardrums might just burst
Anyways all has this has led me to the conclusion that the new name for my blog really ought to be "an ordinaria/ghetto/low class ajo eating roto de mierda (piece of shit) gringa's thoughts about ex-pat living in Santiago"
I think that has a nice ring to it
And with that, buenas noches and I'll leave you with a picture of some "pelo lais" i.e. straight haired i.e. cuica Chilean girls for your viewing pleasure...
Please share class stories!!!...i think they're muy interesante/pathetic/sad/hilarious all rolled up into one...obviously some more sad and other way funnier (um, garlic? REALLY?)
